When Should You Start Anti-Ageing Skincare?

The short answer is earlier than most people think, and more simply than most people expect. Anti-ageing skincare does not begin with a retinoid or a device. It begins with daily sun protection, often in the late teens or early twenties.

Dr Maryam Zamani is asked this question by patients of every age. Her answer is always the same. The right time to start is before the changes become visible, and the right routine is the one that matches what the skin is doing at that stage.

When Does Skin Start to Age?

Collagen production begins to slow in the mid-twenties. From then on, the skin produces around 1% less collagen each year. Cell turnover also slows, so the surface of the skin renews less quickly. For a fuller picture, read our guide to how skin ages.

These changes are gradual. Most people do not see them until their thirties, when fine lines around the eyes and a loss of radiance become more noticeable. By then, the underlying process has been under way for years. This is the principle behind collagen banking: protecting and supporting collagen before it is lost, rather than trying to replace it afterwards.

Genetics set the pace, but the environment has a far greater effect than most people realise. UV exposure is responsible for the majority of visible skin ageing. Smoking, pollution, poor sleep and chronic stress all accelerate it.

Anti-Ageing Skincare in Your 20s

Your twenties are about prevention. The most effective anti-ageing product at this age is a broad-spectrum SPF, worn every day, all year round. Expert UV Protector SPF50 should be the final step of every morning routine.

Alongside SPF, focus on hydration and a gentle cleanser. An antioxidant serum in the morning helps defend against environmental damage. From the mid-twenties, a low-strength retinoid in the evening can be introduced slowly, particularly if you are prone to breakouts or uneven texture.

Anti-Ageing Skincare in Your 30s

This is when most people first notice change. Fine lines appear around the eyes, skin looks less even, and recovery from late nights takes longer. It is the decade to add targeted actives.

A retinoid is the most evidence-based addition. The Advanced Retinol Complex Serum combines retinol, an advanced retinoid complex and bakuchiol, and is recommended from 25 onwards. In an independent clinical test of 30 women, it improved skin elasticity by 40.7% and reduced fine lines by 13.8% after three months. Start twice a week in the evening and increase as your skin adjusts. Our guide explains how to introduce retinol.

Hydration matters just as much. The Bio-Placenta Hyaluronic Acid Serum pairs hyaluronic acid with Bio-Placenta and peptides. In an independent clinical test of 30 women, it improved hydration by 56.5% after 30 minutes and reduced fine lines by 19.7% after three months.

The eye area deserves its own product from this decade onwards. The skin there is thinner and shows change first. As an oculoplastic surgeon, Dr Zamani considers a dedicated eye cream one of the most worthwhile additions to any routine in the thirties.

Anti-Ageing Skincare in Your 40s and Beyond

In the forties, skin becomes drier and less firm, and hormonal change begins to play a larger role. The routine shifts from prevention to support. Continue with SPF and a retinoid, and add richer, barrier-supporting moisturisers.

This is also when in-clinic technology at home becomes most valuable. The LightMax SuperCharged LED 2.0 Mask uses red and near-infrared light in its Anti-Ageing mode to support collagen and elastin. In an independent self-assessment trial of 21 women, 81% saw an overall improvement in fine lines and wrinkles after two months. It is not suitable during pregnancy or breastfeeding, or for anyone with a photosensitive condition.

For a full routine, read the best skincare routine for your 40s, and our menopause skincare guide for the changes that follow.

Is It Ever Too Late to Start?

No. Skin responds to good care at every age. Retinoids, SPF and barrier support improve the appearance of the skin in the fifties, sixties and beyond. The difference is that the focus moves from prevention to repair, and results take a little longer to appear.

Is It Possible to Start Too Early?

It is possible to start with the wrong products. Teenage skin does not need retinoids, peptides or anti-ageing creams. It needs a gentle cleanser, a light moisturiser and SPF. Using strong actives before the skin needs them can cause irritation and damage the barrier, with no added benefit.

A Routine for Every Decade

Every MZ SKIN routine follows three steps: Reveal, Enhance and Protect. What changes with age is the Enhance step.

Reveal. A gentle cleanser, morning and evening, at every age.

Enhance. Hydration in your twenties. A retinoid and the Bio-Placenta Hyaluronic Acid Serum from your thirties. LED and richer barrier support from your forties.

Protect. Expert UV Protector SPF50, every morning, for life.

"Anti-ageing is not about turning back the clock. It is about protecting what you have for as long as possible. The patients with the best skin in their fifties are almost always the ones who wore SPF in their twenties," says Dr Maryam Zamani.

Explore our full range for fine lines and wrinkles.

Everything You Need to Know

What age should you start anti-ageing skincare?

Start daily SPF in your late teens or early twenties. Add a retinoid from your mid-twenties, and targeted treatments as visible changes appear in your thirties.

Should I use retinol in my 20s?

A low-strength retinoid can be introduced from the mid-twenties, particularly for breakouts or uneven texture. Start twice a week in the evening. Retinoids are not suitable during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

What is the most important anti-ageing product?

Broad-spectrum SPF. UV exposure causes the majority of visible skin ageing, and no other product can undo daily, unprotected sun exposure.

When should I start using eye cream?

From your late twenties or early thirties. The skin around the eyes is thinner and often shows the first fine lines.

Is it too late to start anti-ageing skincare at 50?

No. SPF, retinoids and barrier support improve the appearance of the skin at any age. Results simply take a little longer to appear.

In Summary

• Collagen production begins to slow in the mid-twenties.
• Daily SPF is the most effective anti-ageing step at every age.
• Introduce a retinoid gradually from the mid-twenties.
• Add hydration, eye care and targeted actives in your thirties.
• From your forties, focus on barrier support and consider LED.
• It is never too late to start, but it is possible to start with the wrong products.